wave magnet


Go to wavewatch.com for your local surf forecasts

Sunday, May 6, 2007

The Nearing

I'm posting this, as a satalite post, from a friend's new apartment in the gaslamp district down in San Deigo. It's a slow day here, just getting ready for a housewarming party and one of the many good-byes I'll have to say this week. Buffet plays on the stero and a bottle of wine has been opened.

This afternoon as I drove with my windows down and the sunroof pulled back, I headed south past all the spots I'd spent so much time surfing, and i had them to my right for the last time. Laguna, San Clemente, Trestles, and San Onofre. The wind whipped through my truck as I creened my head to the right to try to catch a glimpse of the surfers pack at San O. There were cars and trucks all over the highway with longboards starpped to their roofs telling that there was some action in the water. It must have been a small day but i saw a set pull through what would have been just north of Old Mans. One guy out at the point stroking into a wave all by himself while there were three or four guys closer toward shore at the second point and too may to count waiting for the reform.

I rounded into Pentelten and thought of all the reasons why I had moveed here in the first place; a number of them all wrapped up into today: friends, surf, wind and music passing freely through open doors, a steel drum melody to surf the sunset away.