The Reality

ok so this is going to be a quick post. I have drunk friends in my apartment and I just want to get this off before they destroy my place so here it is:
I went out today, it looked small and managable but there was no one else out. I took about 14 waves on the head before I got outside. I then sat there geting ripped south by the current until i caught my only wave which I crushed. Fast turns, high lines, all power no room for mistake and then a launch off the top like a carnival ride. A good wave. Well worth it.